Do your research, examine other guitars and get it right the first time. The lower portion of the guitar body, aligns at the 22nd fret and the top portion aligns at the 19th fret. I mark the butt end of the neck where it needs to be cut and use a miter to remove the the excess. The fit of all the parts must extremely tight, otherwise you will have gaps that need filler and it will never look as it should. I get this as close as I can to reduce the amount of sanding that has to be done once the guitar comes together. I plane the body section of the neck to the thickness of the two body parts. Prior to this, I have used a joiner to give me straight edges on the two body parts and the sides of the neck that will be joined. In this part of the build process, I lay out the two parts of the guitar body and the neck and get ready to clue them together. I should begin routing out the pickup cavities and be able to complete the drilling early next week. The guitar looks great and I am liking the layout. You can wipe mineral oil on the fret board to keep it happy. I use Tung Oil on the neck and the head stock as well but not on the fret board.
Use very thin coats and allow to dry over night before buffing and appling the next coat.
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Using a lint free rag or cheese cloth, pour a small amount of tung oil on the rag and wipe in the direction of the wood grain. Since hard rock maple is so solid, you can actually buff it using a 10 or 12 in buffing wheel and be amazed at the luster it brings out in the wood. Tung Oil applied in the manner gives the wood a deep luster and is easy to repair.įigured wood is normally not finished with sand paper due to the fact the wood lacks consistancy and goes in and out depending on the figuring and that is why a micro planer is used. Buff just enough to take down any high spots or bubbles. The 220 grit is where I'll stop but if I were to apply any finish, it would be about 10 coats of Tung Oil with a light buffing between each coat using #0000 steel wool. After that I would use a very fine jeweler's rouge and a buffing wheel to get the figure to pop. Just before the finish is applied I would plane the wood with a micro scraper and polish with #0000 steel wool. Once I have the high parts almost where I want them, I switch to a 220 grit and then to a 320 grit but that I do by hand. Using a palm sander with 120 grit I worked on getting the seams and the contours to butt up as close as I can before the final finish. It is now Oct the 10th and I have removed the guitar from the gluing rack and done some rough finishing of the guitar.
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